Day 62.

must be a holiday today.  few cars parked around.  huge groups of people in local parks.  several people wished us “happy new year”.   learned today that tracy jackson is in hospital.  he was friend of mine from champaign/urbana from 1994.  saw him this previous summer.  he looked a little off and we asked him if he was ok.  he said “it was complicated”.  apparently, he has had leg swelling and shortness of breath for recent months.  recently learned that he has  been diabetic for 10 yrs but doesn’t take his medication very often.  he went into hospital to get checked out on easter i believe.  heart rate went up and he coded.  got him back but unconscious and intubated.  lots of problems with blood pressure.  hope for more updates.  

Day 63.

hangin’ out.  tracy has a facebook site put up by friends and family.  still not doing well.  considering organ donation.  how very sad.  has wife, 6 yr. old dgtr.  only 41.  good guy.  

Day 64.

elin and alex arrived from states today.  supposed to arrive last night but alex got sick on plane.  took him from airport to international hospital where elin and anrianna (dgtr) spent night.  he will be there for a couple of days.  took them out to fel fela for dinner.  nice.  actually had good news on tracy.  off some medication and not looking like he is going to die.  heart rate and blood pressure stabilizing.

Day 65.  

evi to daycare.  walked to sofitel hotel to meet elin and adrianna and off to khan il khilili.   back home for dinner.  tracy continues to stabilize.  congestive heart failure.  they are saying his drinking led to this.  has ejection fraction of 20%.  not good.  kidneys were failing but seem to be working better.  

Day 66.

to sofitel to get adrianna while elin went with driver to hospital to get alex.  took her to gezira with boys to play and swim.  brodie helped her on the ripstick.  back to their hotel in evening to meet alex.  he seems to be recovering but still unsteady.  kids swam in their (BEAUTIFUL) pool.   had dinner on floating restaurant attached to hotel.  lovely. one of the nicest hotels we have seen.    

Day 67.

Brodie and juleon went with alex, elin, and adrianna to giza to ride camels.  went well.  did an hour trip.  they went back to their hotel until evening when they joined us for dinner at abu sid.  always:  yum.  tracy is actually moving to commands.  wow.  could he actually pull out of this?  keeping fingers crossed.  

Day 68.

evi to day care.   elin, alex and adrianna start their tour today.  museum, pyramids then off to luxor and aswan.  today a gentleman identifying himself as our garbage collector came to our door.  with virtually no english i figured out that his job is to empty our garbage cans and he would like 20LE baksheesh (tip)!!!  really.  very nice man but you want me to tip you for doing your job.  i guess that is the way they do things around here.  i wonder if he asks his egyptian clients for this tip.   tracy continues to improve.  off most meds.  bp good.  heart rate good but occasional elevation.  responding to yes/no questions appropriately.  again, wow.  

Day 69.

to fulbright office in eve.  speaker on political views of egyptians.  was poli-sci with phd.  information seemed skewed.   seems citizens trust their clergy, don’t want them elected, believe the government newspaper over independent papers, feel the government is corrupt but don’t have personal experience with that but think corruption leads to #1 concern:  unemployment.  hmmm.  afterwards to dinner with upstairs neighbors, karl and katie (also fulbrighters).  dgtr, maria babysitting the kids.  good to have adult time.  dinner at fabulous italian restaurant in our neighborhood.  tucked in back alley – never knew it was there.  karl also told us of a couple other places we will have to try before i leave.  soon.  not good new about tracy.  still on vent but only as back-up.  which is good, but doctor says his heart is too weak and probably won’t survive.  don’t know for how long.  there is a shot in the gut.  after all the positive progress he has made.  

Day 70.

no news about tracy.  hang out day.  made leftover stuffed vegetables.  yum.

Day 71.

tuesday.  still no news on the facebook site about tracy.  getting worried.  nothing exciting today.  going to 5 bells restaurant.  trying to check out few good places to eat before i go.  5 bells was quite good.  standard egyptian fare along with pasta, fish and steak.  outdoor patio was very nice.  service was better than most. saw white owl flying while walking home.  tracy updates were on facebook when we returned.  good news mostly.  will be getting trach and peg tube tomorrow.  changed doctors since original dr. wanted to send him to long-term care.  which might still happen but new dr. wants to keep him in hospital and try a few things.   hanne was late again.  going to have to address this issue.  julie had not faculty or students at studio today.  everyone is preparing for cinderella ballet.  

Day 72.

julie not going to work today since students, faculty not around.  will pick up extra day after cinderella performance over.  to fagnoon today.   very cool.  65ish yr. old gentleman started art “camp” about 20 yrs. ago.  wanted a place for people to express themselves.  now place is huge with several buildings.  situated on road to saqqara along canal off nile.  rustic buildings.  open air.  owner is artist and has several people on premise putting together his projects.  lovely man.  took us on tour of his house.  WOW!!  sort of like rustic stilt house connected to complex of buildings.  balcony surrounds the place.  upon entering your mouth hits the floor and doesn’t move.  every single piece of furniture is hand made.  every door.  multiple sculptures.  every bowl, vase, dish handmade.  all the curtains, rugs, tapestries.  etched glass.  paintings.  cannot describe how cool.  the kids had fun also.  :-)  they started on the wheel making clay things.  then to the blacksmith building to make a couple of wire figures.  and finally to do wood carving.  took short camel ride to top it off.  very cool place and kids had blast.  to cinderella ballet in evening.  nice performance, nice show.  unfortunately, several audience members were horrid.  a girl sitting next to me was talking throughout.  she also used her cell phone twice and got up and left several times before not returning well before the performance was over.  her rudest behavior was when she emphatically  and loudly laughed at a performer when she slipped on stage.   here is the kicker:  she is a dancer.  others shined their cell phone flashlights throughout the audience.  many yelled across audience to their friends.  several whistled at others.  lots of people had loud conversations all during the show.  if i lived in cairo i would be embarrassed for how this audience conducted itself.  had talk with hanne earlier.  cancelled commitment for upcoming month.  will pay per trip.  

Day 73.  

to khan il kilili market to pick up some stuff.  explored different areas.  lots of fun.  so many things we would love to buy but very difficult to bring back.  walked by quilters, wooden bucket makers, metal workers, basket weavers, potters, stone carvers, etc.   all doing their trade right in front of you.  to tabula later in evening.  babysitter.  wonderful lebanese restaurant.  great food, setting, and service.  actually had good service for a change.  

Day 74.

decided not to do pharonic village today.  kids want to go but pricey, cheesy and not going to be lot fun with evi.  so julie and boys will do after evi and i leave.  bookstore to get books for boys.  to gezira club.  to karl and katie’s upstairs for dinner.  another fulbrighter, mike and his wife were there as well.  nice.  great food.  

Day 75.

to local market.  mentioned this place earlier.  very cool.  bakeries, outdoor vegetables, live chickens, rabbits, pigeons and goats.  packed with people.  great atmosphere.  wooden hand carts.  umbrellas.  piles of food.  butchers.  last time they were processing a goat on the sidewalk.  to sofitel hotel to meet up with alex, elin and adrianna.  they are back from their tour and heading out tonight.  they said it went well, but tiring. hung out at the pool at their hotel.  fabulous pool.  on the nile.  very nice.  was good to see them.  and certainly good to see people we know here.  took guys, evi to gezira while julie got some work done.  

Day 76.

evi to daycare.  learned recently why so much garbage around city.  the muslim (not pig-favoring) state of egypt had them all killed during the swine flu scare!!  can you believe!   i didn’t believe it so i looked it up.  oh yeah, even with utterly no evidence of  people contracting flu from pigs and no scientific data supporting the plan to slaughter all pigs as preventitive measure it was done anyway.  the coptics used to raise pigs – was major source of income for them.  they would go around the city collecting the garbage and sort it.  the organic material went to feeding their pigs.  the rest was either reused or disposed of.   no pigs:  no need to collect garbage to feed pigs.  the state doesn’t have good trash collection system.  so the muslim government killed the christians livelihood.  hmmm, i think they should look into this separation of church and state.  and we should remind ourselves why it is a good idea.  the boys and i went with julie to her work.  place is a wreck.  sad.  looks like active rehab on parts of campus.  could be great place.  lots of kids in class.  studio building in particularly bad condition.  dance floor had actual nails sticking up with cotton threads stuck to them.  cracked, splintered, dirty.  

Day 77.

boys and i walked around perimeter of zamalek.  about 4.5 miles.  stopped at fish park.  cool park with man-made mountain, landscaping, play area, sitting areas, labeled fauna and animal displays.  actually WAS cool park.  now in terrible disrepair.  lots of potted plants simply dying because nobody waters them.  graffiti on ancient statues.  litter.  broken playground equipment.  broken fences.  dirty.  so sad because it could be a really cool place.  inside man-made mountain were jars of preserved fishes and mummified animals:  seals, alligators, and sharks.  not wrapped just mummified.  lots of taxidermy specimens all in very poor condition.  there were several 20 gallon aquariums with various fish you might find in wal-mart.  the good news was the inside ceiling of the “mountain”:  a family of about 200 bats!  flitting about.  hanging around.  screeching.  inside was made to resemble stalagtites  (sp) and the bats were tucked in the areas in between.   also discovered another park along the nile and saw a variety of birds and fish.  and garbage!!  it is just everywhere in the nile.  in cairo anyway.   hanne cancelled this am trip and was a no-show for pick up for julie’s work.  much cheaper to just grab readily available taxis.  i think the hanne saga is coming to close.  tonight to one of julie’s students performances.  

Day 78.

tuesday.  hang out day.  to market east of here.  bought shoes for juleon.  got boys soccer shirts.  julie and i picked out a couple of items also.  then found great koshari place.  best koshari and best service in cairo.  tiny little diner in midst of this market.  busy.  yum.  

Day 79.

off to red sea trip with fulbright tomorrow.  boys and i did some errands and had nice lunch out.  dinner at fel fela again.  was looking for another restaurant in area but with success.  good food but again service sucked.  at one point there were 10 tables and 8 waitstaff.  come on.  do something.  

Day 80. 

took one of those huge tour busses to zafarana.  southeast of cairo about 150 km maybe.  stayed in stella di mare hotel.  wonderful hotel on red sea.  resort type of place.  beautiful beach front.  fantastic pool – made to look like natural rock with gentle slopes and waterfall.  huge.  this trip was for the fulbrighters to give presentations to the group regarding their role here.  julie presented today.  we lounged by pool, hung out by ocean and ate a nice dinner.  

Day 81.

julie off to presentations and the rest of us to beach combing.  found lots of cool shells, etc.  walked out very long pier.  beautiful water.  clean.  clear.  lots of fish.  the boys went off with other kids from fulbright families for hours.  not babies anymore. to ocean in afternoon  where we found lots of crabs and starfish.  never seen live starfish in ocean.  kids caught a bunch.  released everything unharmed of course.  

Day 82.

back on big bus heading south and west to st. anthony’s monestary.  first one in world.  dating back to 3rd or 4th century.  lots of history.  head monk, mathew gave us tour and we had lunch there.  very nice.  then back to cairo.  

Day 83.  

to khan il killi market.  don’t think i ever spell that right.  picked up a few trinkets for friends and family.   julie and boys to arabic lessons while evi and i hung out – simpsons and snacks.  

Day 84.

julie to work.  getting prepared for departure.  wow.  3 months.  evi and i are leaving tomorrow night.  wow.  am glad to be going home.  had unbelievable time here.  couldn’t imagine doing some of the things we did.  boys have seen and done so much that will impact them for rest of their lives.  of course all of this has been possible – like other trips – because of julie.  her efforts have led to so many positive happenings in all of our lives.   the kids and i certainly are very fortunate.  i look forward to getting back to our place with the animals and gardens and green.  i look forward to seeing familiar faces of our friends.  i look forward to a good beer.  :-)  will miss the boys.  will miss julie.  and actually will miss egypt.  i have never been separated from boys or julie for one month.  i have never cared for 2 yr. old for a month by myself.  :-)  and actually will have lots of help with that.  while i am working i will take evi to my sister’s for a few days and then julie’s mom will come to gambier for longer work stints.  (we are very thankful for that!!) plans for evi’s birthday tomorrow.  2!!     

Day 47.

khan il khili market.  found pancake restaurant colleen remembered from 30 yrs ago.  looked it up on internet and knew basic area.  delicious food.  the “pancakes” are actually a very flakey flat bread – about dinner plate size.  actually bought some yesterday at that market we found.  the bread is flavored with meat, vegetables, cheese, chocolate, honey, or many varieties of foods.  wow.  a delight to eat.  market was quite quiet.  nice.  bought incense, scarves, t.shirts, and bookmarks.  fun.  on somber note we were passed by a funeral procession.  group of men approached the corner of the road just outside of the market.  we stepped back as the first 6 men walked past carrying a coffin-sized box draped in cloth on their shoulders.  behind them came 20-30 people spaced over next couple of minutes.  no fanfare, simple dress.  weeping women.  everyone paused.

 home to pick up evi from daycare.  julie and boys off to arabic class.  colleen, evi and i off to gezira club to hang out for a couple of hours.  nice.  cool weather.  jacket weather for sure at night.  skype conversation with drew, jill, jeff, sarah, sam, and harper.  and ollie and evi got to see each other to the delight of evi – and oliver.  evi often mentions “ollie”.  

Day 48.

fucking mosquitos.  what to do?  mosquito net?  napalm?  poor evi with more bites.  covered fan vents in bathrooms and kitchen.  louvers in bathroom also passing plentiful wind so taped closed as well.  also plugged gaps in kitchen door.  will use bug repellant tonight and see if these changes make a difference.  errands today.  not always easy getting things done.  tried for 2 hours to get cash.  after numerous conversations, consultations, and denials, everything was ok and got our money.  ???  when you give big bills to merchants they refuse to take unless you have change stating they have none.  until you walk out – then they “find” change.  or the vendor with the big visa sign on his door…”the machine is broken, i need cash”.  as you are leaving:  ”let me give it one more try”.  and it miraculously  works.   making plans for alexandria on wednesday.  leftover vegetable curry.  yum. 

Day 49.

mosquitos better.  one small bite.  colleen left this am to julie’s school.  apparently most of school is on break until current play is done.  until mid-april.  so much lighter load for julie.  i am off to return necklace julie bought.  broke and lost pendant.   merchant fixed chain but wouldn’t replace pendant.  will buy that and other items from a local merchant we like.  stopped at alley falafel vendor and  had lunch.  boys at home doing homework, me having a quiet lunch sitting on curb with my diet pepsi.  another vendor came over and gave me a newspaper upon which to sit.  it is only proper!  back home to check progress of boys homework.   to gezira club then boys, julie to arabic lessons.  problem with hanne again.  did not show this am and called to say stuck in traffic.  late for pick up.  julie had a little heart-to-heart regarding expectations.  hope this clears up.  

Day 50.

hanne on time to take us to train station.  off to alexandria.  couldn’t get 1st class so got 2nd.  on time but train was filthy.  windows, floor, seats.  my seat was wet.  surfaces sticky.  beautiful scenery on way to alex.  not dissimilar from countryside going south.  off train and crossed street to roman amphitheater.  cool.  recent find.  still excavating area around site.  cab to hotel.  no reservations – just winging it.  :-/   they had rooms.  old hotel.  cheap.  185 LE.  about $35.  sheets were clean, had hot water in sink and toilet worked.  no (famous) yellow cockroaches.  shower curtains were filthy.  neither shower worked.  did i mention the view!!  6th floor.  balconies that overlooked east harbor of the mediterranean!  looking down on corniche.  WOW.  location, location, location.  and free breakfast in lobby overlooking mediterranean.  before bed we walked corniche along sea.  beautiful.  to fish market restaurant.  highly recommended and for good reason.  tables overlook the sea.  wait staff everywhere.  you go to fish “counter” with attendants and pick your fish or seafood and tell them how you want it cooked.  the waiters bring trays of various salads that you chose at the table.  and 20 ft. away is a stone oven in which they are baking the flat bread for the tables.  i watched ours come out of the oven and right to our table, still hot.  wow.  the fish was done perfectly.  yum.  and all 6 of ate for about 400LE – about $80, including a bottle of wine.  after dinner took carriage ride home.  told driver 1/2 hr and to our hotel.  he took us through lots of markets and fun areas of town.  at end i gave him 100LE (agreed on 50) and thought he would be happy.  he did not take it and asked for 200.  after 5-6 minutes of broken exchange and no resolution i put the 100 on his carriage and walked away.  there was a little yelling in there.  up to our room.  evi asleep and had bottle of wine on balcony … overlooking sea.  

Day 51.

awoke with plans to go to recommended restaurant, trianon,  for coffee.  realized our hotel lobby had view of nile, it is close, and served breakfast for free.  sold.  then cab to fort quaitbay.  pretty cool.  built on site of ancient lighthouse.  lighthouse was considered one of the 7 wonders of the world.  built around 337 b.c.  it collapsed in 1200 a.d. during earthquake.  in 1300 the remains were salvaged and fort quaitbay was built.  cool fortification.  little walk along mediterranean.  to trianon for lunch.  nice.  to pompey’s pillar.  only remaining pillar out of approx. 400 believed in this temple originally.  huge, red granite.  one piece.  site was, by far, the best maintained.  also included subterranean catacombs.  lots of relics and ancient building pieces.  met very nice woman, wants to email julie.  on way to pompey’s pillar our cab driver got punched in face by carriage driver.  carriage driver asked us to take a ride, we declined because of our plans and so he hailed us this cab and explained to the driver where we were going.  then he thought the cab driver should compensate him for finding him customers.  i gave him 10LE but he continued at driver and hit him twice.  our driver pulled up to police and they proceeded to question the carriage driver while we left.  when the cab driver dropped us off  at pompey’s pillar a cop “intervened” in our conversation with driver.  driver wanted to know whether he should wait. for his “efforts” the cop expected money as well.  no favors for free.  (rarely)  and they do not hesitate to tell you what they expect for their efforts.   walked to catacombs.  very cool.  more conflict there.  guard was giving us “tour” when an “egyptologist” came along and took over tour while guard followed.  they exchanged words on occasion.  at end we tipped guard and told them to share.   yeah, that went well.  instant arguing so we walked away while listening to them holler.  catacombs were deep underground and originally found with over 300 mummies.  saw a couple remains that were untouched.  lower levels flooded by rising sea but still saw lots of reliefs, paintings, and burial spaces.  couldn’t take pics so bought postcards. upon leaving had to tip woman for checking camera.  tip for guards to watch bags.  money.  money.  money.  like a dripping faucet.   to train station.  return was 2nd class also but this time nice.  clean.  clean.  

Day 52.

colleen’s last day.  shopped for a few take home items.  to airport around midnight.

Day 53.

saturday.  hang out day.  

Day 54.  

sunday.  hang out.  

Day 55.  

plans on desert trip for thursday.  should be fun.  great dinner of curry vegetables(including purple carrots), baked cauliflower and meatballs.   

Day 56.

no excitement on this day.  

Day 57.  

prep for desert trip in am

Day 58.

0700 picked up at our front door in van to head to bahariya oasis.  cairo stretches for miles.  huge constructions projects at outer limits.  apartment settlements and malls bigger than i have ever seen.  the “green valley” settlement stretches for about 8 miles.  can only imagine it is at least 10 yrs from completion. looks like it has been started and will never be finished.  rusted signs show the glory of someone’s dream.  as we drive we pass gates over roads that go nowhere.   thousands of transplanted trees long dead.  a landfill-worth of garbage filtered in its dried branches.  it feels like cairo will never let us out of the city.  after about 1.5 hours we reach oil fields.  our road parallels a train track and conjoined piles of sand that look like huge pearl necklace laid out.  the buildings stop here.  another 50 km of sand piles from excavation along the road.  after 2 hours we pull into rest area.  brick building which serves cold beverages, coffee, tea, chips, bread and cheese.  bathrooms are available for the brave.  a barefoot man (!!!) has a foot in the sink washing it.   back in van for final 2 hours.  we arrive at the el beshmo lodge in bahariya oasis.  our guide meets us with our 4×4 land cruiser.  we also take a driver and a security guard.  americans and israelis get an armed (with machine gun) guard while we travel.  other countries simply sign a waiver of responsibility.  all of these travels are monitored by the government.   we have to buy admission to different areas and go through check points.  first destination is large dune coming off mountain.  greater that 50 meters in height.  to the top for some great panoramic views.  area is remains of volcanic activity.  black metallic stones with bizarre shapes.  ring like metal when you tap them.  the lighter colored stones sound like glass when you tap them.  .  after descent we drive about 1/2 hour to restaurant.  ”middle of nowhere”.  rustic, mud brick and thatched roof.  a few tables in front then to the back where we went.  open rooms with lattice walls covered with bedouin cloths.  grass mats on ground covered in egyptian rag rugs.  cushions upon which to sit at our coffee table height table.  food was eisch, tuna, foul, cheese, vegetables, and oranges.  yum.  very relaxing.  shoes off.  after lunch to crystal mountain.  more of a hill but impressive none the less.  folded layers of earth encrusted and even constructed entirely of crystals.  so cool.    on way to camp got stuck in sand.  our skillful driver worked the vehicle out and off to agabat mountain area.  we had option of tents but chose to sleep under stars.  but first dinner was prepared for us.  rice and vegetable mix cooked on gas burner while chicken kabobs grilled over our open campfire.  delicious.  we dined in similar fashion as the restaurant where we had lunch.  bedouin cloths supported by poles were placed at 45 degrees and rugs laid on sand.  our “coffee table” was placed in middle with cushions surrounding.  with table removed and sleeping bags added this became our sleeping area.  before dinner the stars came out.  !!!!  more stars than i have ever seen.  from horizon to horizon.  milky way.  our rugged surroundings silhouetted against their sparkling.  the boys identified the constellations they knew.  occ. shooting star.   the chalk white formations towering over us only faded in the starlight.  when the moon came out 2 hours later the formations seemed to glow.  at dinner the common desert fox visited us.  darling grey fox with huge ears.  

Day 59.  

awoke before sunrise to explore area.  walking over chalk was treacherous, but also cool and refreshing.  razor sharp edges eroded by wind.  often looking like waves frozen in time.  littered with black pebbles of volcanic remains.  shell fossils were common.  broke camp after eating breakfast of bread, cheese, oranges and sesame paste.  and of course coffee.  our bottled water tastes best now because it has cooled overnight.  felt like maybe 5o degrees.  by late in the day our water was very warm.  first stop was chalk cave.  many fossils of coral.  made from black volcanic minerals.  drove through rugged terrain with beautiful rock formations.  huge towering chalk formations.  amazed at truck and driver’s ability to navigate soft sand, rough rocks and crazy route.  we were bouncing all over inside of vehicle.  there is a reason for those handle all over the inside of the vehicle.  one variable is the speed:  in order to pass through the deeper sand you must be going fast.  evi laughed and yelled “whoa”  and “fun” a lot.  to overlook named theatre.  as you looked down at dozens of simple round chalk formations you could imagine you were on stage and these were your audience.  to oasis for lunch.  maybe 70 ft. in circumference.  like an oasis on a post card.  4 vehicles were there when we arrived with its occupants tucked in the shade on rag mats and cushions.  we joined them while our cook prepared delicious lunch.  about 50 yards away was spring that has been used since ancient times –  in particular the romans.  they developed it and put in place the foundation for the current layout.  maybe 12 ft. x 20 ft.  it has receiving pool which drains into largest pool.  this is probably 6 ft. x 10 ft. and has sitting area along one side beneath the water.  this drains into lower, narrow pools which the cooks use for washing up and doing dishes.  most people only pour water over their heads at the upper spring but of course we disrobed to our shorts and got in.  aaaaaahhhhhh!  after only a day and a half in desert your body really thirst for cool water.  now on to white desert.  the most unnatural natural structures i have seen.  10-40 ft. formations sticking out of flat desert sand.  wind blown into bizarre shapes.  chicken.  rabbit.  mushroom.  caves.  all solid pure white chalk.  amazing.  saw desert fox cave with fox at entrance.  camp here.  again under the stars.  great dinner.  campfire.  full moon.  surrounded by “glowing” white formations.  

Day 60.

awoke to head to black desert.  here the volcanic mountains dominate.  black and yellow sand blend along the ground with pure black mountains like pyramids pushing up.  upon closer inspection coal black rocks make up these formations.  again with the metallic feel and sound.  cool forms from the wax-like cooling process millions of years ago.  up top of mountain to see panoramic view.  wow.  back to bahariya oasis to conclude our trip.  driver and guard depart here and we head back to cairo with our guide.  on highway outside of cairo we were almost involved in car accident.  as we drove along about 70 mph a truck in opposite land lost control of his vehicle.  the road was 3 lanes each way divided by 8″ high cement median.  this truck shot across the median, turned up on 2 wheels while crossing directly in front of us.  the distance between our contact was measured in inches.  the car next to us and half  a car length back actually hit the truck.  we actually watched the impact from the side windows.  this caused the truck to flip onto its side and slide down road.  traffic was busy here but somehow it avoided getting hit by another car.  fearing for the condition of driver we requested the driver stop.  he refused.  i even told them i was a nurse and could help.  we continued to drive.  our guide told us that help would come quickly.  i had read that getting involved with these accidents could be very complicated and very involved once you contribute to the situation.  i guess legally you become liable as well.  too bad.  this person was probably in bad shape.  gives you pause.                back home.  first thing was ice cold diet pepsi.  :-)  

Day 61.

easter sunday.  julie put out candies and treats for the kids.  pancakes and eggs for breakfast.  to gezira club.

Day 43.  

another uneventful day except colleen watched kids while julie and i went on date.  so nice to be together.  went to fel fela again.  nice place

Day 44.

to egyptian museum with colleen.  incredible.  saw king tut’s stuff…gold jewelery, funeral mask, etc.  stunning.   also saw royal mummies.  i guess about 15 of them.  amazing looking a 4,000 yr. old people.  back to fel fella AGAIN since the restaurant recommended to us did not look so great.  julie, colleen and brodie to performance, carmen.  evi, juleon and i held down the fort.  carmen sucked…they left at intermission

Day 45.  

sabbath.  to giza pyramids.  hanne drove us and we walked around all of them and the sphinx.  fabulous.  shame to see some of the lack of care being given to the temples, structures, and pyramids.  still wonderful history.  several foundations of crumbled pyramids, roadways, and buildings.  hieroglyphics with graffiti and actual carved named over them.  litter.  even we allowed boys to climb on lesser pyramid because we saw it was not restricted and several kids were doing it.  immense pyramids.  can only imagine the surrounding layout with buildings, roads, and temples.  had to be spectacular.  awesome to be standing at the base of these structures and feeling very small.  the significance of the work required is overwhelming.  the activity that must have been occurring around this place 4000 years ago!…   colleen took her first camel ride with others.  beautiful day.  not too hot –  and not sleeting.  wonderful experience.  boys got hair cut after we returned home.  nice dinner of curry vegetables and local sausages.

Day 46.

off to opera house museum.  closed.  other museum closed.  so to american university bookstore.  got off on wrong stop so wandered back toward store.  found fabulous market.  no tourists here.  local fresh vegetables, fruit, live chickens and pigeons, spices, and some butchered meats.  packed.  bought a bunch of stuff.  will go back here.  so good to buy directly from the farmers we have seen in our travels.  bought a few books at bookstore.  home to our neighborhood.  to gezira club for a bit.  then to ceramics museum a block from our house.  cool stuff.  home.

wednesday.  calm day.  planning on going to citadel tomorrow.  is fortification from around 1200 ad which contains a famous mosque and a couple of museums.  located on hill above cairo downtown.  supposed to be nice views and fresh air.  yum. zapping mosquitos with my new toy.  the boys and i go on search and destroy campaigns.  

Day 31.

mosquitos still a problem.  killing the bastards as effectively as i can.  poor evi is bitten up.  going to have to do something differently.  mosquito nets maybe.  love frying the little buggers with my new electric swatter.  evi in day care then to citadel. wonderful.  fantastic architecture.  met a nice woman that guided us for a while.  good english.  hope to use her in future.  lots of grade-school class trips here.  they loved talking to us in english.  practicing.  loved julie.  often with several children around her.  one group of girls even went out of their way to purchase necklace from vendor and give it to her.  how sweet.  then walked past muslim cemetery to al-azhar park.  wow.  fabulous park.  fountains, lake, gardens, courtyards, restaurants, grass.  smelled so good.  up on hill so great views of city.  a few LE to get in but definitely worth it.  so relaxing.  play area for little ones.  had food on bench next to lake.  very nice.  actually began our dining experience at a fancy restaurant with a table on the lake but we left.  waiter was a dick.  rolled his eyes when the kids were undecided and wouldn’t tell us (even though he spoke english) details about this LE45 minimum.  his elusiveness convinced us that he was screwing us so after we ordered we walked out and told him in arabic, not good-not good.  asshole.  not our first experience with male wait-staff.  made arrangement with amr’s parents for play date here on saturday (today is thursday).  this turned into a spontaneous play date tonight.  amr’s father drove her to pick up our guys and take back to their place.  very glad to let the guys get to interact with kids their age.  went well.  julie and i went on a date to thai restaurant.  very nice to sit down and be waited upon.  nice place, good food.  waiter seemed forgetful but apparently this is egyptian way.  ambled around a bit before returning home.  stopped in “back-street” shops in our neighborhood.  checked out a textile shop and a couple of silver shops.  julie bought a nice silver snake bracelet. 

Day 32.

today we went to hanni’s house for dinner.  he picked us up in his cab and brought us home as well.  very sweet.  he lives in a cozy apartment with his son (his wife cannot get a visa to return from libya) and his mother, father, brother and sister live across the hall.  we arrived and spoke with hanni for a bit.  we met a few of his family members as they popped in.  we moved to his parents’ apartment where we were served egyptian coffee.  very nice.  lovely people and so sweet.  we then returned to his apartment and he brought in bowls and plates of food:  eisch, stuffed oakra, stuffed peppers, roast meat, chicken, rice and stuffed vine leaves.  delicious.  couldn’t even consider finishing all of it but we did make a good dent.  our family ate together as hanne excused himself to be with his family.  apparently this is customary in egypt.  he came back to check on us then returned to clear our dishes.  after dinner we returned to hanne’s parents apt.  the boys played some computer and a lot of soccer in the apartment (!).  julie was given a hijab by hanne’s mother and shown how to wear it.  evi did not approve.  they then gave us cream to put on evi’s mosquito bites and pins to hold the hijab.  so generous.  tea was then served while we chatted.  another hijab given to julie.  no one spoke english except hanne-who translated for us.  sweets were offered as well as fresh fruit.  after helping hanni’s dad interpret a recent urinalysis result and discussing his antibiotic regiment he gave us a stitched leather-bound day planner.  back to hanne’s apartment where we chatted and the boys continued with the indoor soccer.  hanne then gave me a shirt he had purchased.  very nice of him.   generous and gracious all.  we bid good evening to his parents, then to his cab.  the ride home was memorable.  he lives in a charming area with lots of vendors.  very active.  people out dancing.  music, lights.  the traffic stole the show.  i have never seen such chaos.  as we entered an intersection without stop light or sign the congestion became very unorganized.  mopeds and little 3-wheeled vehicles made in india filling in empty spaces between vehicles.  other than all being upright the arrangement looked like hotwheels poured out of a bag.  no one direction dominated the others for the most part.  eventually – after lots of yelling, honking, and waiting order was restored enough to move on.  another memorable night in cairo.  these people are so sweet and kind.  and generous.  warms my heart.  

Day 33.

met with amr’s family at al-azhar park.  they were 2 hours late.  this “egyptian sense of time” annoys me.  anyway they apologized and we had a nice time walking around the park, kids playing in water fountain, talking.  went to historic wall/fortification which is actively being excavated.  recently discovered.  housed built over it.  these were bought and demolished.  the people were relocated into new houses.  pretty cool.  it is actually part of the fortification around the citadel.  amr’s parents bought the kids ice cream.  then we were invited to their house.  put all 10 of us in his car and off to their neighborhood an hour away.  we stopped at local restaurant “oasis” where several restaurants were clustered.  nice outdoor area with tables/chairs, garden, pool.  they paid for our kids.  we accepted an invite to stop at their house for coffee and tea.  boys hung out a little more while we visited.  very nice.  we continue to be impressed by the egyptian hospitality.  tereck then drove us home.  

Day 34.

to ramses station to buy tickets for luxor trip.  had to get cash first-must pay with foreign currency.  ??  then bring our passports.  walked to metro about a km away then subway to station.  metro is very nice.  only 1LE (20 cents) per trip.  it only goes in 4 directions though.  the station is in northern cairo.  crazy busy.  people, vendors, outdoor food vendors, multiple intersections, train tracks, foot bridges.  and dirty.  litter and dirt, sand collecting in all available corners and untraveled areas.  took about an hour to locate office to buy overnight sleeper car tickets.  decided to sleeper car down and regular train back.  buying sleeper car tickets was a breeze but then off to search the many rooms and offices to locate the regular tickets sales.  many rooms with 2-3 men in various stages of pause or conversation.  we needed to go to a separate building for our tickets.  then to discover (after asking 4 people to make sure) that you cannot buy a ticket from luxor to cairo.  same company, same train, same, same……   so will have to book those once we arrive in luxor.  3 hrs into this rewarded boys for their patience by taking cab back to metro (and i was sort of lost).  after arriving back in zamalek even picked up a horse carriage for a good portion of our walk.  then to alfa.  picked up evi and julie returned from work.  the boys and her left to arabic lessons so evi and i went to park for a couple of hours.  then home to cook pasta meal using local spices, herbs, vegetables.  even picked up a few huge prawn.  mix it all up with a little hot pepper, milk and parmesan cheese (local variation)…yum.   

Day 35.  

hot today.  above 90.  stayed in mostly and cleaned and did homework.  bought a dellah (egyptian coffee “laddle”) and made egyptian (turkish) coffee.  yum.  getting ready for our trip to luxor tomorrow.  supposed to be above 100 everyday there.  wish they would accept me if i wore tank top and shorts.  

Day 36.

tuesday.  preparations for overnight train to luxor tonight.  after arabic lessons to train station.  contrary to what i read the train was prompt and clean.  and the food was quite good, hot, and plentiful.  they get you on the drinks.  no alcohol.  was dark when we left but still pretty cool passing villages that were lit up.  2 rooms with bunks.  cute.  comfortable.  upon arriving in luxor we were assaulted with cab drivers, toutes, and booking agents trying to sell trips.  i mean, as soon as we stepped off train…  a little unsettling, but it gets worse.  we start talking with a gentleman that will take us to our hotel.  of course he has a pitch.  we needed to get a falluca to cross to west bank of nile and he arranged that.  he came with us and presented his info.  it actually was sounding ok and he wasn’t “too” pushy.  problem is we had booked our hotel for 2 days and maybe 3.  he took us by “his” hotel first.  (this is where they make their commissions)  and it was fabulous.  4-star.  balconies overlooking nile, heated pool, bar/restaurant, breakfast, etc.  we checked out our hotel:  not nearly as nice.  knowing i had made verbal contract with first hotel, i did not want to cancel.  ultimately the other hotel was going to be much nicer experience so i did cancel.  woman was not too pleased and wanted me to pay both nights.  left her an envelope for one and an apology.  then to deal with stress of committing a lot of money to this stranger to book our trips for us.  we did.  5,400LE.  (>$1000)  little more stress when we found out that our credit card did not work.  i was supposed to call to tell them monthly that we were still traveling.  the number did not work.  so had to go to atm and drain bunch of cash to pay for trip.  after all that mess to our lovely room.  suite.  great view of nile with pasture of grazing cattle across the way.  sailboats docked nearby.  king bed for us and pull out couch for boys.  down to pool.  looking at the nile from the pool.  sweet.  then off to our first trip: temple of karnak, luxor temple.  both amazing.  only pictures will do justice.  avenue of sphinx’s is a work in progress.  it is an ancient road between temples about 30 ft. wide lined with sphinx’s.  hundreds of them.  part excavated and hundreds of feet in still to be dug out.  you can only imaging what this must have looked like thousands of years ago with palm trees, gardens, gleaming road leading to this huge 70 ft. high temple reaching into the sky.  after that to an indian restaurant near our hotel.  very nice.  

Day 37.

0600 on our way to red sea.  small town of saffaga.  about 3 hrs.  driving is a trip.  check points and road blocks every few miles.  terror threats were high several years ago so security was jacked up.  up to 2 months ago any tourist taking this route had to travel in scheduled convoys.  uniformed soldiers with ak-47, plain clothes arabs with pump shotguns.  between stops drivers constantly signal each other for presence of “speed cameras” – radar.  oncoming traffic will wave you through if clear or will signal to slow down or with fingers indicate how many km away the speed camera is located.  this while passing up to 4-wide on 2-lane road.  they also signal by flashing their lights.  low, medium, bright.  flash, flash, flash, flash,flash.  on and off slowly or fast.  sometimes just from on to off.  almost every car had something to say and we answered back.  some even had headlights that their 2 lights worked in alternating patterns.  and, of course, during darkness, some chose to not use lights at all.  this appears to be personal choice everywhere.  turn signals are the same.  saffaga was very quaint with smattering of european travelers.  we joined half dozen of them for a snorkeling trip.  WOW. great reefs.  first stop was ok but next wonderful.  stayed there for a couple of hours and snorkeled.  julie and i traded off with evi and she finally napped so we could both go for a bit.  juleon was having tough time with mask but finally got it.  brodie went in a few times.  nice reef with nice variety of fish.  saw clams for first time.  also saw anemones, clown fish, great corral, urchins, parrot fish, gars, barracuda, jellyfish, etc.  then the crew cooked and served us dinner.  absolutely lovely.  great food and plentiful.  pepsi.  most people took siesta after dinner.  so relaxing.  great breeze.  incredible water:  clear with 3-4 distinct colors.  fish swimming around boat.  chatting with europeans.  lovely people.  just a fantastic experience.  long drive home.  ate on rooftop restaurant of neighborhood hotel.  nice night breeze while looking at nile through the night.  and, yes, with a nice cold sakkara.  

Day 38.

juleon puked through night.  diarrhea also.  uh-oh.  off to west bank and valley of kings.   plan to see 3 tombs there.  brodie wanted to see king tut’s tomb so he did that.  not impressive as far as aesthetics because he was young king but tomb did contain his interior coffin and the actually mummy is encased there.  juleon fading.  sips of water then vomited.  off to other tombs.  hot. hot. hot.  well over 100.  juleon pale.  lying on ground when we stopped.  not good.  kept him drinking water, shaded.  tombs were amazing.  beautiful hieroglyphics.  and colors!!!!!  vibrant black, blue, red, yellow.  never would have believe 4000 years later colors would look like this.  not just a few rows of hieroglyphics, but entire tombs covered floor to ceiling-including ceiling.  some 1/2 big, others life size.  details.  all telling stories.  mind bending.  must see pictures.  after valley of kings to alabaster factory.  this area is famous for processing alabaster mined farther south near aswan.  beautiful pieces.  had demonstration on how they carve this stone.  bought a couple of items for house and boys.  not cheap stuff but hand-carved translucent stone vs. machine polished items from tourist shops.  juleon was tended to by the merchant and given tea with menthe to sooth stomach.  and it worked great.  no more vomiting, no more diarrhea.  off to temple of hatshepsut and mentuhoptep.  this thing was buried in sand for thousands of years therefore preserved very well.  parts that were above ground were damaged or vandalized.  this is the place that had the terror event that precipitated all the travel security south of cairo.  in 1997 islamic extremists killed 60+ tourists and egyptians.  again must see pictures to appreciate.  back to our hotel.  spent a little time lounging by pool.  waiters brought us food and beer.  aaaaaaahh.  then to falluca for ride to banana island.  very cool.  took falluca up river (south) to island with banana plantations.  nice to see wildlife on nile.  given tour of plantation and local houses.  lots of goats and donkeys and one crocodile kept by farmers.  after tour we sat on large wooden tables under canopy of banana trees and were served fresh bananas and beverages.  aaaaaaahhh again.  then home to stroll around the neighborhood.  bought tapestry/carpet from local artisan.  nice.  

Day 39. 

late start.  desk man thought i wanted wake up call at 0930 instead of 0530.  anyway, off to aswan.  almost to jordan.  our farthest point south for this trip.  here is temple of philae.  actually it is named philae after island.  temple is actually for sobek and horus gods.  put both in one to draw more people in.  this temple was going to be covered in water when the lower dam was built in 1960′s so it (40,000 parts) was moved from it’s previous island to this higher one.  beautiful.  romans, greek, french all occupied at some point.  bonapart’s army carved a memorial into the temple walls with many others.  most notably was the christians.  they used the temple for hundreds of years.  they defaced the god reliefs  as well as carved crosses in the walls.  they have done this to other temples but not to this level.  they chiseled most of the faces and skin off all the reliefs because, of course, that is blasphemy to their insecure god.  build your own damn temple.  i digress.  the island was beautiful.  required a boat ride which is always nice. before we arrived in aswan we made 2 stops to see temples.  first was edfu temple and the second farther down the road was kom ombo temple.  after visiting kom ombo we relaxed in courtyard near temple for soda.  lovely place built by nubians.  very relaxing.  few tourists.  after finishing up with philae temple off to train.  sleeper cars on the way back to cairo.  tickets were for separate cars but with some effort and nice gestures on passengers we were able to switch to have adjoining rooms with connecting door.  this time it was only 4:00 in afternoon so able to view egypt along nile as we returned north.  love this train travel thing.  the soothing sounds and motion of the train,  the relaxed pace, and ability to take in the land you cover.  outside of cairo and all along the nile is mostly farmland.  tiny plots – 1/8 acre to 4 acres.  all patchworked together.  no fences.  littering of many palm trees.  donkeys standing while their farmer harvested current crop.  many white ibis contrasted the bright green crops.  occasional irrigation ditch running through field.  also camel, ox, goats, and cows.  small mud brick houses cluttered together.  sunflower patches.  and the backdrop to this was the nile, palm trees or both.  a donkey and small 2-wheel cart can haul lots of harvest.  closer to aswan were plentiful sugar cane fields.  this crop was loaded on donkeys, tractors and semi trailers.  large sugar cane factory in aswan.  not pretty, spewing unregulated black smoke in to the air.  but it employs about 500 workers. 

Day  40.

arrived in cairo about 0500.  got pretty good sleep on the train.  good food.  our steward was a piece of work.  very helpful initially arranging our cabins so we could be together.   then at end of trip hands me stock note stating his thanks and that he was happy to serve us and the standard “service fee” was 50LE ($10).  no shame.  again with the $ thing.  getting under my skin.  actually relieved to be back in cairo because we can now walk about without anyone harassing us for money.  the areas we were just visiting have 85% of their income from tourism.  getting house put back together.  everyone loaded up and off to airport to pick up colleen.  not on board!  so about 2300 all went home.  to bed.  i went back to airport to see if she was on next flight – which she was.  home about 0300.     

Day 41.  

monday.  got membership for colleen at gezira.  hung out in neighborhood.  made big spaghetti dinner.  

Day 42.

uneventful day.

to gezira club.  walked around a bit.  got lunch.  and boys got to try out their ripsticks.  did very well.  both up and rolling.  then off to hear speaker at fulbright.  very cool.  american that became muslim.  talked of role of muslims in this world.  covered topics such as perception of muslims, incorporating youth, moderate vs. conservative interpretations of islamic law, islam in america, etc.  extremely well read and educated.  took questions after.  wanted to ask his opinion on the gender bias of islam but am trying to be politically good boy.

Day 21.

julie off to work.  first day.  will be good to find out the routine and schedule.  hung out with evi and boys.  to gezira club (gezira sporting club–gsc).  boys are really getting good at ripsticks. down to al diwan to confirm arabic lessons for boys.  julie has her schedule worked out.  full days on sunday and tuesday with short day on monday.  worked out deal with cab driver – hanni – to pick her up and drop her off.  will also pick up boys and take to arabic lessons.  julie made vegetable curry tonight.  yum.  found large pot of discarded top soil.  you bet i snatched that up, put it in a box i found and hauled it home.  don’t see too much black dirt in city.  everything is dusty, sandy and dirty.  and certainly no place to dig.  now have a couple of potted plants and a pot of cactus.

Day 22.

evi to day care around 0900 for first actual day.  went well.  worked on homework with guys and took them to gezira club.  found squash courts.  met a couple of guys that spoke english.  figured out what i need to do to rent courts and made plans to meet them friday am to play.  julie’s first day of actual teaching. went well.  some students missing because of current ballet concert.  the studio was impressive but in desperate need of maintenance and cleaning.  students are classically trained in ballet but do have some modern teaching in their program.  julie was given tickets to see their ballet concert tomorrow.  working on babysitter.   bought squash racquet and soccer ball today.  hope to get much use out of them.

and what is up with dog poop all over sidewalks.  not that many dogs in general but seem to be more around here.  i watch as these animals crap in the middle of the sidewalk and the owners just walk away.  i have bitten my tongue so far but i do not think that will continue.  i know – it is “just how they do it here”.  18,000,000 people and nobody thinks that maybe picking up after your dog shit is a more civilized way to live?  when your dog shits on the sidewalk leaving a steaming heap do you think that the next person walking along just doesn’t care.  and these aren’t poor people with small bubbles; these are people with money and resources.

Day 23.

quiet day.  julie and juleon went to spartakus ballet in eve. while brodie, evi and i stayed and watched scary movie.

Day 24.

thursday.  to bent and red pyramids.  cold and rainy.  about a km between pyramids and our cab driver didn’t think his car would go over rough road.  (every other car we saw did.)  so we walked.  started raining again and got colder.  after spending a little time at bent pyramid walked upwind into driving 40-50 mph rain.  each drop felt like a needle prick.  and cold.  another cab driver felt sorry for us and drove us to our cab then got out and yelled at our driver.  got to go inside red pyramid.  really cool.  passage was about 4.5 feet tall and steep down.  once into burial chamber opened up to large space.  stench of many bats.  smooth precisely cut granite stones.  perfectly fitted together.  unbelievable.  called red because of color of granite stone used.  bent pyramids name came from change in angle of pyramid after about 2/3 built.  theories range from reduced resources, manpower, to angle too severe to support itself.  unique to all pyramids.  also saw small pyramid of pharaohs wife next to red pyramid.  black pyramid in distance.  named because of the color of manufactured bricks used to build.  these did not weather well so pyramid crumbling.  through memphis but did not stay long.  continued to rain and museum is outside.  memphis was the first capital of egypt  and reportedly the oldest city in the world.  lots of vendors and shops.  many donkey, goats, and oxen.  lots of farming in area.  of course when we got home it was 75 and sunny.  treated ourselves to nice dinner of local cuisine at abu sid.  it is just a couple of blocks from our house and highly recommended restaurant…and for good reason.  it was lovely.  comfortable.  dark carved antique panels.  lit by antique-style tin “carved” lanterns.  rustic furniture.  cozy.  great food.  got to try pigeon.  tastes like chicken:  tiny dark meat parts.  no beer because it was past sundown the night before sabbath.  :-(   thunderstorms during dinner.  rare here.  but so refreshing.  washed most of dust away.  but then the water stayed in streets.  no drains.

Day 25.

to gezira club to play squash with 2 guys i met a few days ago.  played a good couple of hours.  felt great to play.  did not embarrass myself.  actually won more than i lost.  both are from cairo and both speak fluent english.  nice.  one is a pharmacist for cvs and lives in iowa.  there is an adjustment.  he is back here for vacation.   told me streets have no drains because years ago it only rained about once per year.  now more so they have trucks with tanks that come around after rain and vacuum the areas of sitting water.  got phone numbers so hope to play again.  to alfa – again – to pick up a few items.  later to gezira club with boys to meet the boy they befriended at cairo tower.  they have been doing email.  had a nice time chatting, ripsticking, and having lunch.  very nice boy.  his family is lovely as well.  have invited us to their home in new cairo.  the gezira club is unbelievable.  have never seen anything like this.  i guess the closest would be a country club.  only much more diverse and varied.  kids playing, families watching the children play soccer, people swimming, young -and old- couples sitting at tables chatting.  tree-canopied courtyards with tables.  vendors selling treats.  workers constantly cleaning, sweeping.  waiters come around and bring you food from a handful of small restaurants that stay open late.  couldn’t figure it out so a lovely young egyptian man helped us out.  we ordered food and it was brought to our table while we relaxed and let the kids play.  a little espresso as the night descended and the lights came up.

Day 26.

walked to garden city a couple of miles southeast of us.  to pay al diwan for language lessons.  stopped there at local restaurant that was recommended.  very nice.  walked home again.  over to gezira club for a couple of hours. have been skyping a few people.  amazing. so nice to be in contact.  weather was very pleasant today.

Day 27.

sunday.  evi to day care.  going well.  julie to work.  squash for me.  played with joussef – egyptian from earlier – for a couple of hours.  he is leaving tomorrow.  bummer.  back to iowa.  cold today (73) so the boys wanted to stay in…and you guessed play computer.  a couple of errands and a walk about our neighborhood.

Day 28.  hang out day.  walk to fulbright office  to pick up passports with our new resident visas.  passed overpass greenhouse.  want to get something green for house.  again with the well-dressed gentleman coming over while the boys and i were looking at the nile:  telling us information, chatting us up, and oh, by the way come with me to my shop.  what the hell.  over and over again with this routine.

Day 29.  so it has been about a month.  longest “vacation” ever for me.  4 months is the wrong amount of time:  you make do with what is available and don’t change things like you would if you were here for a year.  it is like camping with someone else’s stuff.  not enough hot water.  drains don’t drain.  24/7 with boys.  no work.  no car.  no investment in this place.  no green.  not the right dishes, etc.  only being able to have conversations with my family.  getting out means entering the dirty city of cairo.  i know that sounds whiney.  will cherish all that we do here but am looking forward to going home.  going to buy a plant today.  to gezira for a ripstick session for the boys while i read the newspaper.  notice old rich people staring at us on occasion.  wonder if because we are american or if it is a class thing.  a couple of decades ago the government opened up the gezira club to public.  used to be very exclusive to only the richest.  the government was trying to smear the stark line dividing rich and poor.  it is still expensive even for common egyptians but there is definitely a class range now.  i think we may fall on the lower end of that range.  (some statistics show that 42% of egyptians live below poverty line)   ok one plant turned into 4.  got a couple tropical tree-like plants and a couple smaller ones to sit on tables.  no clue what they are.  got all for about $25.  including 4 rustic pots that would have cost $80 alone.  warms the place up a bit.  julie and boys off to arabic lessons.  guess it was very good.  intense.  one-on-one.   hanni, our driver, dropped one of the $ routines on julie.  told her a woman he knew of 80 yrs. of age rolled her car 3 times (losing me already) and he was collecting money for her bills.  wanted to know if julie wanted to help.  she declined.  is it possible that this was legit?  sure but is identical to routines we have read about and have seen.  as americans we are supposed to be aware that we are seen as cash cows and this is just their way of getting a bit of it.  just tired of the routines.  otlobs tonight.  did i talk about otlobs?   it is this online restaurant service.  you go to site, sign in, pick your restaurant (from about 60) browse the menu, type in your order and they deliver it within 45 minutes.  very reasonable, convenient and good.

mosquitos continue to be problem.  today at alfa was asking for bug spray and fly swatter.  imagine trying to do that without arabic skills.  clerk indicated what looked like a tennis racquet and i assumed he misunderstood my charades.  upon closer inspection i realized this was a bug zapper!!  too f.ing cool.  you hold down a button to charge the grid and swing away.  tried it at home and laughed out loud.  POP.  ZAP.  the handle detaches and plugs into outlet to recharge.  the handle also has built in flashlight.  are you kidding?!  and we americans think we are creative.  

First day at work:   Pretty rough neighborhood.  Even guards at Academy not friendly at first.  Introduced myself while walking to dance building and just got a grunt in return—wouldn’t even look at me.  Huge complex—one building for dance, one for theater, and one for music.  Could be just amazing, but really falling apart, as Ranya had warned me.  Had to walk over a board “gangplank” to get into the dance building, b/c steps are all torn up.  Magnificent statues and paintings throughout building, but half are on the floor leaning against walls instead of hanging where they belong.

Met Ahlam—director of the program.  She is lovely and articulate, and I can’t believe she apologizes for her English.  We met to look at the schedule, talk about the program, etc.  As we talked many faculty came in and out.  The Academy was founded by 5 dancers back in the 60s I think.  They studied in Moscow, came back and put on a ballet.  Impressed the government enough that they were able to get funding for Cairo Ballet and accompanying school.  These 5 are called the “butterflies.”  I met 2 of them, and spoke at length to one.  She is absolutely lovely, and still so engaged in the program.  Very excited about me teaching some notation.  Not sure how to fit it in, though.  Felt like I just met an Egyptian Martha Graham…or maybe Doris Humphrey…she was much kinder and warmer than I imagine Martha.

So program is modeled on Russian-style conservatory.  Kids screened for entry.  Take academics half-day, and dance other half.  Mostly ballet, but also character and modern for last 3 years.  After graduation (high school equivalent), some are hired into Cairo Ballet or other companies.  Many continue on with masters and then phd.  Can choose either teaching or choreography/performance track.  I’m teaching in the latter right now, but want to find out more about the teaching side.  Ahlam said entrance into school used to be highly competitive.  She was one of 15 chosen from 500 I think for entrance.  Now less in demand, as she says that many parents want schools that offer foreign languages, etc, and pay for dance as extra-curricular.  They do require anatomy, etc.

Way out—waiting for Hanni (my driver).  Started talking to guards, trying to use my terrible Arabic.  They enjoyed, tho and were laughing and smiling with my by the time I left.  Always helps to laugh at yourself!  They actually seemed happy I would be back.

Just back from first day of teaching.  Went and met everyone yesterday, and today did full day.  Am sooo dirty I can’t believe it.  Incredible huge facility with 10 studios, but falling apart.  One studio was so dirty and splintery that we couldn’t even do floor work.  My lungs and throat sting from breathing in all the dirt and dust, but overall it was great.  Think the students really liked it, and teachers are great.  Dancers range from ballet-trained teenagers to professional performers in Cairo Ballet.  Pretty impressive.  One young guy took all 3 of my classes and kissed my hand as he left.  Awesome.  They also asked if i want to set a piece on students to be performed at the Cairo Opera House.  Don’t think I can pass that one up.  Going to see Cairo Ballet at the opera tomorrow night.

Opera was another incredible experience.  Took Juleon, as couldn’t find a sitter for Evi.  Thought he would enjoy “Spartacus”  and he did.  I expected the Academy to just leave tickets for me at the box.  Instead, Dr Mahmoud and Tarek, 2 teachers met me (along with 2 of the students).  We all sat together, and they told me proudly about their students performing.  The lead male arranged for my tickets, and requested meeting me after the show.  I just sat there in this huge, ornate theater trying to absorb the reality of it all.

Huge production.  Lots of glitz—incredible sets, shiny costumes, great lights.  Full, live orchestra.  Very strong dancers, although rather typical and stilted choreography.  Again—leaning to over-literal and dramatic—altho less noticeable in traditional ballet lexicon.  Want to work on release and dynamic range with students—don’t need classical technique from me, that’s for sure.  Will be interesting to see how receptive they are—this is hard stuff to make important to young, professional dancers.

Evi is doing fine, altho having all this time together has made her incredibly tied to me–more than ever.  When we go on all these trips and long walks she wants me to carry her most of the time, and does NOT want a carrier.  Is actually really taxing me physically, and I get tired of having to keep a super-radar on all the time too.  Can’t take my eye off for a second.  She cries when I leave her at daycare (me too) but when I picked her up the other day she was happily working a puzzle with a teacher.  Their English isn’t great, but they seem very loving, so I’m feeling better about it.  She misses her friends, I think and was just asking about Olie the other day.

Am considering seeing if I can change Evi’s ticket so she goes back with me and the boys.  If the daycare thing pans out, I think I can swing it.  Less sure what to do with the boys.  Will only be teaching 3 days/week, but they will be long days.  Probably will need to bring them along.  Yee Haa.

Went to the Red and Bent pyramids yesterday.  Red was amazing–can walk down shaft into the vaults.  Actually a bit creepy, b/c you have to bend over to walk down long, long, descending corridor.  Pretty claustrophobic (esp carrying Evi), and air gets thinner and more acrid from bat urine as you go.  Gives a real feel of the tomb.  Then walked to Bent pyramid b/c our driver didn’t want to risk his car on the unrefined road–even tho it was much better than most of the paved Cairo roads.  Had been blowing and raining off and on all morning, but seemed to have cleared, so we set off on mile walk.  As we started back, clouds blew in and 50 some mile/hour winds and rain start pelting down.  Still carrying Evi.  Worst was sand blowing–it hurts!  Can only imagine a real sand storm.  Made it almost back when French woman and her driver picked us up and drove us back.  Her driver gave ours a real verbal spanking!

Treated ourselves to dinner at Abu Sid.  Gorgeous restaurant in area. Beautiful lamps, different seating areas throughout, lots of Arab treasures all around.  Felt like something out of a book.  Great food too.  Even the pigeon Michael tried.  Rain is nice–washes dust off everything, but drainage in streets is horrible, so walking around in some pretty nasty water.  Everyone goes out with brooms to sweep off their sidewalks.

-Juleon- I am having alot of fun here in Cairo, Egypt. We saw some pyramids and got rip sticks (a skateboard that has two wheels). I found a very funny book called The Pharoah’s Handbook, and also a craft book. We have alot of fun crafts. My most favorite thing is the pyramids.   my least favorite thing is being bored and i’m  stuck in the apartment because we can’t go out side by ourselves.  bye.  (I am the pharoh)

The grocery store is an Egyptian version of Wal-Mart in that it has everything.  Food on the lower level, toiletries and housewares on the 2nd level, and clothing on the 3rd floor.  It gets hotter as you go up…We buy H2o by the case–can use tap water for boiling and washing, but not to drink, we are told.  Even the locals buy bottled water.  Milk is ultra-pasturized and in cartons–not even refrigerated.  Not as bad as it sounds, though.  There are many of the American brands of cereal, peanut butter, etc, but very pricey.  Egyptian brands much more reasonable, and about the same once you figure it out.  Fun to look at all the packaging….

Cheese is a trip.  Lots of packaged versions that aren’t that great.  Sort of weird, gellatenous consistency.  Hard to find what you want from the case with limited Arabic, but good when you get it right.  Also not finding hummus.   Must not be Egyptian thing.  Olives are amazing.  got a whole contanier for about $1 the other day. Bakery in the store is great.  Can buy loaf bread, but why?  We did the first day for the kids, and it’s still on the shelf.

Ventured into the street-side butcher today for the first time.  A bit intimidating.  The meat (usually skinned carcasses)  hangs outside and we saw it being loaded in from a side car the other day.  (metal motorcycle side car with peeling paint and dirty – into old, worn, dirty basket)   But today they were making sausages, and we just had to try.  Boys got to watch them being made–the real deal.  The owner instructed me that all the spices are inside, just to cook in water.  He was right.  We had them for dinner, and it was incredible.

Aside from food, the adventures continue.  Yesterday we went to the Museum of Contemporary Art at the Opera House and then to the Cairo Tower.  Had a side trip walking into Dokki looking for lunch and led by someone looking for a tip and shoppers for his sister’s store.  Have to be so careful saying yes to anything…Museum was great and tower impressive.  Met lovely family at tower with son Brodie’s age who wants to speak English.  They are already emailing and we hope to connect as families.  Our first Egyptian friends.

Two incidents that really touched me too.  I was behind the rest with Evi as she played in a hole in the sidewalk.  A woman in niquab approached and stopped for Evi (not at all unusual).  She kissed her and spoke to her. We exchanged looks and smiles (I think) and I tried to talk in my very limited Arabic.  When I said good bye, she held out her hand as to shake.  I responded, and she slapped my hand like a high five.  I believe this is a sign of friendship.  Felt great.

Then on the tower I was walking around the top admiring the view with Evi.  Came across a young couple, he very handsome, and she in full niquab.  Could barely even see her eyes.  Both were adoring Evi–kissing, and talking up a storm about her.  Assuming it was all complimentary, I said “shukran” (thank you).  Both of them stopped and laughed.  I wasn’t sure what to think, but the woman embrased me and kissed me on both cheeks.  Couldn’t believe it.  Lovely people.